I don't know your definition of a city but presumably quite big in terms of population and surface area. So I suspect the only places in Normandy near the coast that you mlght just regard as cities are Caen (population around 110k) and Le Havre (pop around 180k). In Brittany you could look at Brest and Nantes.

 

we want to be in a city (we live in DC now), have access to a hospital (just in case), cultural institutions like an art museum and classical music, near the Atlantic (we are Americans who grew up on the East Coast), and a lively expat group nearby.

I'm not sure you're going to find what you want in France, given your list of "wanna haves." The only real city in France is Paris - which isn't exactly near the Atlantic, but it meets all your other requirements. And I can't really think of anything resembling the US notion of a "city" in Normandy or Brittany - in some ways, that's half the "charm" of those areas. Bordeaux seems to violate your notion of "not southern France."

Actually, if you can afford it, Paris could be a good "home base" for your initial year in France. At least it's at the center of the transportation hub, which would allow you to try out a number of different areas on a shorter term basis to decide whether or not you'd want to move there in your second or subsequent years in France. (Or you could simply join the vacation time mass evacuation of the capital to head for the great outdoors. Or plan your excursions for the "off-season" - between the peak vacation seasons.) In that sense, Paris probably offers you pretty much everything you are looking for. (Just checked and the predicted high temperature for Bordeaux on Saturday is 39°C = 102° F)

 

You might have a look at Nantes. It's definitely a city (pop 300k+) located in southern Brittany near the Atlantic along the Loire. Some don't like to include it in Brittany but les Ducs de Bretagne lived here for 600 yrs. It has a great climate cooler than Bordeaux. It rains a lot in the winter and there's been some flooding, a bit typical for this area. This summer has been spectacular of mostly mild and warmish days. Only about three or four so far that went over 30 degrees. There's an opera, lots of concerts, several universities and free lectures open to the public. There are expats and an active english speaking fb group if you want that. I very rarely hear english spoken in my area and that's fine with me. For some reason it's not high on the expat list of places to land and that's ok too. I was aiming to live in Vannes when I first came but it's more touristy and just up the road so convenient to visit. I like Quimper, Concarneau and Douarnenez. Rennes is really nice too.

 

I've been to Nantes a number of times and totally agree. Interestingly, we looked at Brittany first and had almost settled on Vannes, before we opted to look a little further east. If we were doing it again and looking for a larger town/city, Nantes would be high on our list.

 

It's always very hard to say, depends how you live now and everything will be different to Paris. Even Paris is very touristy in summer and crowded, so I wouldn't rule out other places because they might be busy during. The US East Coast will get a lot more sun than you will see in Normandy, Brittany. You could look to Bayonne and would also have access to Donostia-San Sebastian in Spain.

 

Lyon. Definitely Lyon. The capital of French gastronomy. 500,000 city population in a well integrated 2,000,000 population metro area. Great public transportation (Metro, Tram, Bus). Excellent external transportation (air & rail). 2-3 hours to either the mountains (Alps) or the sea (Mediterranean). Close to excellent wine country (Burgandy, Beaujolais, Cote d'Rhone). History and culture galore. A small but active US expat community (American Club of Lyon). Excellent health care system (research/teaching hospitals).

 

I think you have to be clear about the areas that are good to live in, Lyon being such a big city, including advantages and disadvantages of those particular areas.

 

Lyon is very cold in the winter and hot ion the summer...

 

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We are both from the Northeast originally (Boston, northern NJ) so DC weather is not really our preference (very mild winters, very hot and humid summers). We like snow in winter and swimming in summer where it's not hot /humid. We are open to being in two different places in France during the year for this very preference.

 

Snow in winter is becoming very rare in France. It does still snow in the Alps and in parts of the Pyrenees, though even on the highest peaks in the Pyrenees there has been no snow some years. Even the ski fields have all become dependent on man made snow. The Alps have been chosen for the Winter Olympics but they will have to invest heavily in making snow and ice.

 

Don't blame you! I guess I have an issue when people say a place is "too hot,,or too cold, or too windy ".
I come from a place in Canada where winters are cold. Lyon is a mild to me.
It's so subjective.

Good luck!

 

Where in Canada are you from?

 

Even if cold during winter, Boston would be very sunny compared to much of France (apart from Med). If you look at Paris, they receive roughly 800+/- (depending on areas) fewer hours of sun per year.

 

Nantes is a very attractive and interesting city but it does have a history of being somewhat volatile. High immigrant population and all that. As I recall there were riots there last summer (2023). I don't know how far below the surface it all is now.
Of course every city can have its moments.

 

Nantes is a very attractive and interesting city but it does have a history of being somewhat volatile. High immigrant population and all that. As I recall there were riots there last summer (2023). I don't know how far below the surface it all is now.
Of course every city can have its moments.

Thank you for your anecdotal anti-immigrant swipe at Nantes. Now I know why immigrants of the ex-pat flavor don't come to Nantes.

 

I do remember driving back from Spain and it was getting late, so we looked for hotels in Nantes and stayed in a hotel around 3km from centre (roughly Quartiers Sud). I must admit that I didn't feel comfortable at all and even the nice Indian guy at reception told me that he has to be very cautious who he lets in at night as there is always trouble with certain people.

No doubt there are always nicer parts to a city like the historic parts, although I didn't feel anything was special. You could still see the same high rise apartment blocks and the modern apartments look like any other town in France or Germany. There's a river and green areas with the usual graffiti on bridges, just don't see the actual attraction. If you are there you are there (work, family etc.), but I wouldn't see it as a must visit place.

 

Son and his wife live in Nantes they don't have a problem.

 

Quick visits, especially to outer neighborhoods, can give a skewed impression. Like many cities, Nantes has areas that feel very different from its center.

That said, if Nantes doesn’t click, there are plenty of other great places in France worth exploring. This list of Beyond Paris: Unique Hidden Gems in France for Authentic Culture might be helpful for anyone planning a longer stay.