The community here is knowledgeable and generous with that knowledge, but it may help if you fill in some blanks. When you move to France will you be (1) retired, (2) working from abroad, (3) looking for part-time or full-time employment, or (4) something else? This matters because, for example, if you’re seniors you need to pay attention to the healthcare situation and possibly avoid “medical deserts” in certain parts of France.

For basic needs/wants, again it really depends on you. Some people would be quite content to live in a village where they could walk to the baker, the café, the coiffeuse, and the weekly market (along with access to high-speed internet). You’re Angelenos—will you want to drive a car (and a place to park it)? Do you want easy access to accountants? High-end boutiques? Antique stores? Hiking trails? Cultural events? Are you foodies who like gourmet cooking or visiting restaurants? Wine enthusiasts? Active outdoors type who like to bike or hike? Or meet up with friends for extended chats over coffee? Etc.

By the way, the town of Eymet in the Dordogne has a large English-speaking expat community. I’m not suggesting Eymet is what you’re looking for, but you may find groups based there on Facebook or other social media who can answer more specific questions about towns and villages in the region.

And while there will be challenges along this path, chances are you’ll be happy you chose it, especially if you have a clear idea of what you want. Good luck!

 

Thanks so much for your response!. To fill in the blanks, my husband will continue to work from abroad, I will retire. While technically we're seniors, we're pretty young minded (our social circle in LA ranges from couples in their 30's - 60's) and while we certainly don't want to be in a medical dessert, we're presently in good health with no chronic medical issues. We do want to know medical facilities are nearby.

Yes, we'll want and anticipate needing a car but also looking forward to walking more, and not automatically jumping in the car to go 2 blocks like we do here. Will definitely need high speed internet, we love food, wine, cooking, the markets, some cultural events, the arts, - not some much antinquing or outdoor types. Love to prend un verre with friends, entertain at our house, go to restaurants, etc. I suspect we'll eventually buy a home that needs work (not a ruin) but to make ours (and I'm an Interior Designer currently), so access to trades & home improvement products will be essential.

 

We hired an out-of-season gîte originally and travelled miles over 3 months looking at places, we spoke to estate agents, learnt estate agent-speak, a language all its own.
We looked round all kinds of properties to get a feel for how and where we wanted to live.
Then when we found an area we rented a house 'à l'année' and stayed there until we found somewhere to buy.
Unless you find your 'place to be' fairly quickly count on this taking time .. sometimes a long time.

 

Thank you, sounds like a good reality check that it will take time.

 

Many of the villages in the Dordogne have little or no public transport and are medical deserts. I suspect that a town would be a better fit for you. Perigueux is hilly by the way.

It's some years since I have been to the Dordogne given my relatives who lived there have now passed away. But we do have members here who live in the Dordogne and l'm sure they will be along shortly to give you their views and advice.

 

But there are so many villages and towns, how do we know what are the top ones? We live in a big city now so we're used to every possible amenity. While we look forward to slowing down our lifestyle a bit, and driving or taking a train is fine as needed but, it would be great to have the basic daily needs/wants in a walkable and friendly community.

Keep in mind that there are something like 35,000 towns in France. And your idea of the "top" towns may vary greatly from how towns are evaluated in that part of France. Not trying to rain on your parade here, but Dordogne has something of a reputation for being populated by British expats - to the extent of being nicknamed "Dordogneshire." Of course things have changed a bit since Brexit finally happened, but all inclusive "15 minute towns" don't really exist in that part of France (nor in most of France other than perhaps Paris itself).

The issue of medical deserts has already been raised - and it's a serious issue to consider. Particularly in the south of France (but also in the Paris area) it may take a 30 to 60 minute drive to reach a GP who is taking on new patients, or even a specialist you need/want to see, and the wait for an appointment can last several months. Although some doctors do indicate their "languages spoken" most prefer to work with patients in French if at all possible (no doubt for their own liability concerns). And when you really need to see a doctor, you often can't wait to find someone who speaks English. Again, not meant to put you off, but to give you an idea of what to look for and what kinds of questions to ask, especially in those "quaint, walkable" towns.

One way to find out about specific towns is to find the official website of the mairie (town hall). Sure, all the towns present themselves as lovely places to live - but you can get a feel for public services, availability of local schools, hospitals, medical centers, what sorts of local festivals and events the mairie sponsors and often local "issues" or points of contention with the town council.

 

Thank you and appreciate the realism. I know the Dordogne has many British expats, but hey, we like British people as well as French people. Thanks for the advice about the mairie and caution on the medical services. You're not raining on my parade. I'm currently studying B1 level french and my husband shortly behind. We have several french friends and we can stumble through conversations with them (although most of them speak English and I know they help us muddle through), we are planning on getting into language classes locally right away.

 

How do we find out more?

As has been suggested, I would agree that visiting the department and staying in one, two or even three different locations (vacation rentals) for at least one month each (preferably longer if you can). This will give you the opportunity to have a closer look at life in each place.

The medical care issue is a very serious one. I've posted about our experience after moving from the Vaucluse to the Dordogne. It can be shocking and it has not improved, sadly. Look very closely at this issue in each place you consider. Do not expect that just because you see there are dozens and dozens and dozens of doctors practicing in the department, that they are accepting new patients. To find that out, you will need to call them.

We live about 40 minutes from Périgueux and an hour from Bergerac, twenty-five minutes from Brive (in the Correze). It's a lovely region, but no place is perfect. Long visits to each area you are considering would help you learn the good and the bad.

More information on what you are looking for would be helpful. And, as was said, your situation - health needs (basic without revealing too much personal stuff), age range, do you need to be near an int'l airport, a train station, will you need to work, will you need a car - if so look into the process of obtaining a French driving license (it is quite different here than in the U.S.A.), do you have a budget for the purchase of your home (some areas of the Dordogne are a LOT more expensive than others).

And lastly, some areas of the Dordogne are swamped with tourists during the Summer months and school holidays. This, IMO, can have a negative affect on the quality of life. So can the weather. It is a good idea to visit the areas you are interested in at different times of the year, including the Summer and the Winter. This will give you a better idea of how life differs in each area during the different times of year.

 

Thank you so much for all the info. Yes, we'll want decent access to public transport. But we'll also have a car and have driven in France quite a lot. Figure daily life in a smaller town is quite sufficient but we'll be in Bordeaux for things and will need to get to Paris or International Airport probably a few times a year. I think we're ok with the weather, generlly we're weather spoiled coming from LA. But like that the climate in Dordogne is generally temperate. I grew up in Arizona and my husband in NY so we both undertand extreme ranges. But we want to live in a comforatable range. We spent a few weeks in Dordogne last November. While quite rainy it was still nice. Thanks again. All of you have been so nice and generous with your comments.

 

As Ms Chocolate has pointed out your status is important-as this affects the type of visa you will need-also Why Dordogne? There are lots of other areas of France and bear in mind the further south the hotter it will be

 

Thank you. My husband has a EU passport and I know I'll have to deal with the visa process but I know we're lucky to have that EU status and anticipate the visa process may be a bit beaurocratic.

 

I very much understand the appeal of the Dordogne region.
I left L.A. 54 years ago to find myself in UK where in spite of no language problems and having relatives there it took me several years to find my feet. Miles of difference in terms of everyday life. In 2001 I came to live in France to find a less stressful life to retire to. It was like stepping off a cliff. As Bev points out, it can take quite a while to find your ideal spot. Aside from your stated requirements, prepare yourself for some other factors. Frustrating bureaucracy, indifferent customer service, tailgating, shops shutting between 12 and 2 (aka "The Black Hole"), unreliable or unavailable trades people, archaic inheritance laws, to mention just a few. If you are determined, and flexible enough to get along with these things there is a lot to like about France.

 

Thank you, Thank you. I'll be looking for references for trades people since I do anticipate work will be needed on any eventual home we purchase. Will cross that bridge... Don't anticipate any inheritance, ha ha fortunately, unfortunately!

 

You may also want to begin to read the daily news sites from the towns you are considering. These are, obviously, in French, but it will be good language practice and will keep you up to date on what is happening in each town/area. This site allows you to choose the town from the 'Ma Ville' drop down menu at top.

https://www.sudouest.fr/dordogne/perigueux/

 

Thank you bonne idee !

 

Just another option for exploring health care. There are two on-line reservation systems (that I use ..... maybe more?):
1) Doctolib - you can search by specialist, location, language etc.
2) Maiia - as above

Hairdressers and related also:
!) Planity.

Cahors in the Lot department might also be a worthy consideration. Good train service, large range of stores, not far from Toulouse (airport), Massif Central to the north, wine and lots of fruits/vegetables, Pyrenees to the south, very scenic surroundings and Dordogne is just up the road.

 

Thank you so much! Appreciate the medical sites. My hairstylist actually moved to Bandol -- but that's a long way to go for a cut/color! So there will be a hunt.

 

It is not clear from the OP's post if the couple are retirees, but, if so, they might also consider how much longer they can expect to be able to drive a car safely, which I take to be essential for living in a small town. I would no more consider living in a small town in France, than I would in in the US, however much more quaint the French countryside may be.

We just moved to central Toulouse, which we find indeed to be a "fifteen minute" town. I thought we would be making extensive use of the excellent public transportation here, but every place we want to go to is just a short walk away. That, plus the general suppression of private vehicles makes walking everywhere a delight. Also, even though a relatively large city by French standards, Toulouse has a notably calm atmosphere.

 

Cahors is definitely worth a look see - though it has been a while since I was last there. I was very impressed. Also based on Chrissippus comments, you may want to look at Toulouse. Most larger towns/cities here are very definitely composed of lots of "neighborhoods" which each have their own particular character. Paris is definitely that way - good areas and bad areas, but find the right neighborhood and you've got all the advantages of a big city with all the best features of a village.

 

I'm not a fan of the Dordogneshire culture but I am quite surprised nobody has suggested looking at Sarlat-le-Canada. It may be at the end of the railway line and full of tourists in summer but it is quite lively during the rest of the year too.

 

EU passport, B1 French, you'll do great. Dordogne is a nice place to visit but I wouldn't want to live there, but that's just me. Prefer north of the Loire.

 

Whenever I visit a place, be it for a day or a couple of days or longer, if I like the place then at some point I always end up asking myself What would it be like to live here, and I try to imagine it. Probably a hangover from touring France househunting all those years ago. No matter how much I'm loving it as a place to visit I usually conclude that no it's not a place I would live. But recently I visited Domme, in Dordogne, and I thought This feels like it might be a rather nice place to live. Seemed a good combination of the chocolate-box prettiness of a little bastide town, a buzzing town centre with a good market and tourist attractions but pleasant residential areas too, an interesting cultural history, a terrific setting, and felt like it had a community spirit.
So I'll throw Domme into the mix although I have no clue about things like the availability of doctors etc.
Oh and I heard lots of American voices.

 

I'm not a fan of the Dordogneshire culture but I am quite surprised nobody has suggested looking at Sarlat-le-Canada. It may be at the end of the railway line and full of tourists in summer but it is quite lively during the rest of the year too.

It's nice enough, IMO, but a bit over rated. The fact that it is OVER-RUN with tourists ruins it. The tourist buses arrive in droves and thousands of people descend into town. Market days in Summer become a horror show.

So I'll throw Domme into the mix although I have no clue about things like the availability of doctors etc.

Yes, very pretty, quaint little town, but again ruined by tourists in Summer and during holidays. And, you'll likely be driving to Sarlat for any medical care and for all commodities.

 

Yes, very pretty, quaint little town, but again ruined by tourists in Summer and during holidays. And, you'll likely be driving to Sarlat for any medical care and for all commodities.

What I liked was that it has residential, semi rural outskirts where you have no sense of being near a tourist honeypot. So many of these places seem to have no outskirts at all, or jarringly drab ones, or end to end retail parks on the approaches. I could imagine living on the outskirts of somewhere like Domme and being blissfully unaware of tourists except when you fancy going in. But you're right, you have to go somewhere and if all your nearby towns are the same then there is no escape.

 

If your husband is going to be working then is this as an employee or on his own account? If the latter he will have to set up a french business entity and pay taxes cotisations etc.
If retired you do not make any direct payment to the French Health Service but a top up insurance is desirable.
You will both be required to submit French tax returns and as US citizens you will always be in the grip of IRS as well

 

Well, leolair, you've certainly had a boxful of useful suggestions and comments - everything from Paris to Eymet! Vive la difference! However, whilst your post was precise, many replies deal with all sorts of things that you did not request information about. So I thought that a more generalised answer might help you.
I'm a Brit, and I have lived in the heart of Dordogne for the last 24 years, so I have learned from the inside about France; the French; south-west France in particular; and tourism; foreigners; and my neighbours. [Please excuse my English spellings!].
For over a decade we established and built a holiday-rental business aimed specifically at couples.Some of the guests were American. Two of the houses we rented out belonged to a couple from Berkeley CA. Amongst our extended circle of friends & acquaintances here was a former UK Ambassador to the US. So here's my first point - the Americans who come here are different. They can be defined by the fact that they have a Passport - 60% of the US population don't. My observation was, that they all shared one thing at least - they were aware of a world beyond the US, and were eager to learn about it and experience it (oh, and also they shared an embarrassment of their President, and how he was viewed in Europe!).
This attitude is key to your decision making. There was far too much discussion in reply to your post about finding everything you want in the way that you have it in LA. This is why over 30% of the resident population of Eymet are Brits - it's a fabulous, attractive, 'bastide'village, but all you will hear is English (in many accents); and all you will see is cafés full of Brits on the booze, with the smell of Fish 'n Chips wafting across the central Place. But property is cheap, the sun shines, and the wine is inexpensive, so let's make it into Little Britain in Dordogneshire.

Your key decision-making, I suggest, should be based on a desire to immerse yourselves in another country, it's culture, customs, history, and lifestyle. But remember, it's the people that make a country - not the amazing castles, pretty villages, rivers and hills. If you want LA in la belle France you won't find it, and shouldn't want to try to recreate it. What's the point? - you will be destined to be dissapointed in your life-choice.
To be clear about this concept. France is a Foreign Country. The people speak a Foreign Language. They have Foreign Customs. They have Foreign Traditions that you need to understand. Please don't just flip over these words. Think about them.
The wording of your post was carefully chosen, so I anticipate that this is all in line with your thoughts and outlook. But you will also be aware that you have only seen the 'buy-me!' cover of the book; and have not been able to read what's inside, because it's all in French. Here's a few chapter headings.

• France is geographically surrounded by other countries and cultures - which a] has brought them into contact with the outside world for thousands of years; and b] caused them to be very introverted and protective of their immediate family & friends. On land, traders have criss-crossed the country from Portugal, Spain, Italy, Britain, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Holland, and so on . . . and they have sea access on 3 sides, including the far-reaching Atlantic Ocean, and the Mediterranean which is easily crossed to North Africa, Arabia, Greece and beyond. So even in a small but idyllic village, don't expect to be invited in for drinks or a casual supper. This is family only territory.
• Driving a car is essential to life. End of story. Forget 'walking to the boulangerie' or a doctor round the corner. In south-west rural areas there are no buses. Single-line trains connect main centres, but you need a car to get to & from the station. Shopping, whether your choice is a hypermarket or a local farmer's market, requires a car to get there & back, and to carry stuff. If you don't want to be car dependent - don't come to Dordogne.
• Tourism is now the life-blood of the region, alongside traditional but declining agricultural work. But don't be put off by this, as some posters warn, bear two points in mind: firstly, the tourist 'season' is really only July and August. So for 10 months of the year it's much quieter, even totally deserted. Secondly, if you buy a home in one of the villages, just a few km out of town, you will never know that there are tens of thousands of tourists sweating just up the valley. However, even in the depths of winter you will still get to enjoy the supermarkets, pharmacies, doctors, banks etc etc that are here because of the growth of tourism.
• The French are very self-protective. They never say 'sorry', because they never accept the blame. It will generally be construed to be 'your fault'. They will blame anyone but themselves, so this is their attitude to service - they don't understand the concept much (with some exceptions nowadays becoming apparent in online businesses).
• On the other hand, if you find a good local French tradesman (artisan) they will show total honesty in their dealings with you.
• All life here is based around the Commune. So it's family first; then the commune. Each commune has at least one main village, with a Mairie and a church, sometimes a school. The Mairie is the office of the maire; and will have at least one secretary. There will also be workers responsible for looking after everything, and carrying-out minor works to keep everything clean and functioning. The maire is elected by a team who put themselves forward for election every 5 years. There are 36,569 maires in France. They are not normally salaried, unless the village has some exceptional demands on it (such as Limeuil village, with about 40 permanent village residents, but over 20,000 tourists a year). The 'staff' are known as fonctionnaires on the other hand, and have a job for life guaranteed. Generally the maire is a local person, born & bred - and knows everyone and everything; the Mairie will therefore be your first port of call for anything that you need . . . but always be nice, polite, and prepare in French what you need/want to say.
• There is a hospital within 40 minutes max wherever you live in Dordogne. Key ones are in Bergerac, Libourne, Sarlat, and Périgueux. In addition there are Cliniques, which are run by groups of specialists, entirely within the State system (they keep any profit). Most outpatient needs are provided outside of the hospitals, which are there primarily for hospitalised patients. So specialists, scanners, x-ray, ultrasound, blood test labs, physio, psychiatrists, etc are mainly in a multitude of external, often custom-built , locations. Everything is totally efficient.
• The pompier (fire service) provide 24-hour emergency medical callout, alongside the SAMU, from their bases all around Dordogne. There is no question of 'Have you got insurance?' or 'How can you pay?'. They whisk you to the nearest hospital, no questions asked. You probably know that you will be issued with a carte vitale when you join the healthcare service here - it has a chip which gives them access to all the info they need. Brilliant system!
• Finally - always think in terms of Liberté, Fraternité, Egalité . . . the French really do live by this motto, and it will guide you well in your dealings with them.

It's therefore down to you to answer your own question. The best route, as already suggested, is to rent for a month or so, and just drive around, explore, turn off right at the next junction and see what you come across. The Dordogne is a box of treasures, interspersed by rivers and wooded hills. All you have to do is choose what appeals to you - everything else is a short car drive away.
A votre avenir! Michael xx

 

We spent 2 months in a wonderful rental home in the hills above Sarlat. It was walking distance to town, or an easy drive. Over that time, we visited by car & spent overnights in many of the towns & cities in the Dordogne. We even made time to spend a few days in Paris at the end. We loved Sarlat and the market days. Some of our favorites: Domme, Lascaux, Pau, Barritz, Castlenaud, Narbonne.
We canoed down the Dordogne River, visited beach towns on the ocean and visited countless magnificent castles. We also loved a visit to the Loire Valley. I highly suggest taking an extended vacation to the Dordogne to investigate.

 

Curious how far you've gone down the path with your plans.
We, too, are North Americans (California/British Columbia) who retired early to travel and increasingly think France is our ideal place to settle.
For us, the freedom of travel is a huge factor.
Bergerac is high on our list with its excellent airport & train station, good access to major roads, vibrant community. It can be a tch cold. Greater Nice is also high on the list with outstanding transportation & warmer weather.
We've learned from other ex-pats that MOST small towns (population under 5000) are too small for expats. The expats we've met in those towns tend to feel isolated and there's a higher rate of leaving.
Actually, we've met French people who moved from French cities to small towns who now advise against it.
What is big enough? I think like North America there are small towns with a sophisticated feel that work.
In California or British Columbia I know what towns are like that.
In France it's still a learning curve.
Looking forward to seeing your updates on this search!
Full disclosure - we've been looking for 5 years and STILL find ourselves on the fence!
BUT glad we did NOT buy the half dozen properties we have come very, very close to buying.
In retrospect, too isolated or too small a town or not great transportation hubs or simply too big for our intended French life-style!
And while prices outside the Big Cities zoomed up 2020-2023, now they're sinking back down. I wouldn't say to 2019 prices, but def lower than 2022.

 

Hi!! I live in Los Angeles and am considering moving asap to the Dordogne. Did you end up finding an area you love? Can’t wait to hear about it./SNIP/

 

Thinking about this move as well, with a more extended timetable. Similarly, we are now in LA and I have a European passport, husband does not. So what towns are quaint, friendly to those who are just learning french, reasonably affordable (Like 250K Euro) and yes, access to transport and healthcare? I appreciate the advice of staying in the region for an extended time to explore. I am sure this will take years to figure out especially from a distance as far as LA. I've written down a bunch of towns already listed in this thread, appreciate it! Just crave that simpler European life but don't want to be exceptionally isolated.

 

Hi Vivian_905 & grid777 as well as any other expats considering the move. Sorry it's been awhile since I looked at these posts, it's been busy. Love to see any other Angelenos as well as other expats coming to the area. It can be comforting to have someone with insight to the area and making the transition. My husband & I found a house in an area we like and bought a house. Moved in late July. Surprise to us we ended up technically in the Gironde vs. Dordogne or Lot-et-Garrone, which we assumed we would land. it's all the same campagne east of Bordeaux. We visited over 20 houses, looked at 100s on-line and visited many villages. We settled in Pellegrue, which is about as far east as you can get and still be in Gironde. We liked the house and knew one village we liked was pretty close, although we knew little of our actual village before. Our village is tiny but has basic services, a small super market, bank, hotel de ville (mayor) the la Post (office), pharmacy, an epicierie, a couple of bar/cafes, weekly market, hardware store, gas station, etc. There are several neighboring villages a bit larger (Monsegur, Duras, etc.) about 10 mins. drive with more restuarants/cafes, a cineman, and other services. A "hype market" (E. LeClerc) is 20 min. away in Pineuihl/Ste.-Foy-la-Grande with tons more services. They have a hyper market in Bergerac as well. We can get to Bordeaux, and go frequently, in about an hour. My advice: Do some reverse engineering in the location search - identify various villages & larger towns that you like, then visit any listed houses of interest within a 30 min. radius. You can tell which ones are a bit bigger just by looking at Google maps and zooming in to see white street grids amongst all the green. It is impossible to check out every village, there are thousands. But it will be in your interest to know there's one or two you like nearby with the basic services. It is a lot nicer to drive 3 min. an ATM, small grocery or for gas, while having more commerce and restaurants within 20min is acceptable. We covered a search parameter from St. Emillion east to Bergerace, then south to Agen, back west to Marmande and then back up to make a square. Frankly it was fun. The agence immobilier (realtors) have a lot of information about the local villages. Just look for houses you like and contact them - they are only "sellers" agents but they are very helpful to buyers. Most immobliers have at least one English speaking agent. If any of you want to message me for more questions, feel free. It would be nice to see more US folks here. We are absolutely loving it!!