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American expats living in Portugal

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7.9K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  mwsmi  
#1 ·
Why do we consider moving to France?

We are a retired American couple (one of Philippine descent) living in Portugal the last two years. We are fairly well-situated in Portugal at the moment but we feel like France may be a better choice going forward because it is a larger, more diverse (in every way) country. We are particularly attracted by the idea what we will find more cultural arts, better cuisine, better support for a walking and hiking lifestyle, and better housing condition than our 7-story apartment building in Lisbon. Portugal is on the edge of western Europe economically, culturally, and linguistically (!!!) and it shows in many ways.

Our life works for us at this point, but we feel that we might do better in France. Are we wrong?

We feel that the Portuguese people, while externally extremely nice, are a “closed group” and we feel - maybe wrongly, maybe rightly - that we will always be living as expats with virtually no Portuguese friends. We experience the Portuguese as a very conservative set of people - they do not go out of their lane. The independence of thought and action that is so highly prized in the US is nowhere to be found in Portugal. We have met a number of French people over the years that we felt very friendly with, and in fact we do have a couple friends in France despite having never lived there and not speaking French. It just seems like a more diverse and open culture.

We like to walk daily and do a bit of hiking. In Portugal, walking is not at all valued as an activity. The sidewalks are in fact terrible, they are made of small cobblestones that are quite slippery when wet - even a little wet - and walking paths are few and far between. Tree cover is very low, almost regardless of which city you are in.

What are building codes like in France? OK, silly question, it obviously depends, but these are the things that concern us in Portugal: (1) no smoke detectors, fire alarms, or fire extinguishers; (2) poor electrical workmanship (kitchen appliances connected via extension cords behind the cabinets) - in fact extensions cords are common and electrical junction boxes are often non-existent; (3) no central heating nor air conditioning; (4) no P-traps in drain lines (this may be common throughout Europe).

One of the aspects of French culture that I enjoyed in my past visits is that the French are sociable, enjoy conversation, and have strong opinions. Portuguese culture emphasizes harmony so that disagreement makes Portuguese uncomfortable.

We have Googled around a but and our mouths are watering with the idea of living an hour’s train ride from Paris and at the same time being near a forest such as Rambouillet or Senart. Maybe even with a house and a yard? That seems like heaven. Of course the grass is always greener, and there would be winters! I suppose we would have to get a car? Are Uber or taxis readily available in the outer suburbs?

From what I have read here, we would have to be quite good in French to get along, level A2 at the minimum being required. (It can’t be more difficult that Portuguese! And much more transportable outside the country.)

If we get the VLS-TS visa, can we get it renewed annually? We are retired so no working. Can we ever get French citizenship?

If we remain in Portugal, we would be able to get Permanent Residency in another three years (which would allow us to travel 50% of the time, e.g. maybe to France) and presumably citizenship five years from now. If we were in our 40’s we would probably just do this, but since we’re gettin’ up there in years we want to make the best of our time.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
#2 ·
"We are particularly attracted by the idea what we will find more cultural arts, better cuisine, better support for a walking and hiking lifestyle, and better housing condition than our 7-story apartment building in Lisbon."
So you want culture and good food, but you're already living in Lisbon? And you want a hiking and walking lifestyle, but are living in a major city?
It all sounds like wanting to have a lot of incompatible things ...
For a start, there arent many French cities that can rival Lisbon for culture, or cuisine. Living in a city isnt the place for a walking/hiking lifestyle ...
And whichever place you be you're going to find the locals insular if you dont speak the language.
 
#3 ·
To be real honest, it's a mixed bag, at least for the things you're seeing in France that you think you'd enjoy better than what you have in Portugal.

I live "about an hour" out from Paris - though it depends on what time of day, what day of the week and what route you take. In the middle of the night with next to no traffic, we have made it into Paris by car in a little less than an hour. Most times during the week, you're looking at 1 hour and 15 to 30 minutes if there are no particular traffic problems. It can be 2 to 3 hours in bad weather or with traffic congestion.

Public transport is available in some areas, but the RER lines (the main commuter trains) have been long neglected so the cars aren't exactly state of the art. And the classic French hub and spoke system means that if you don't live on one of the spokes, you have to drive to a station, find parking and, that can add a good half an hour or more to your trip by RER.

Uber and taxis exist, but outside the city of Paris, service is spotty and can be horribly expensive if you are at all off the beaten track. (Like we are where we live.) So yes, you do need a car.

The other main item I thought of while reading your considerations is that the "Paris area" (i.e. Ile de France - made up of the inner and outer circles of departements immediately surrounding the city) can be as expensive as living in Paris itself, especially when it comes to housing.

As far as the people are concerned, you find all types in France. The best way to get yourselves integrated in the area where you live is to join some associations (anything from the Photography Club to a local choir or whatever strikes your fancy) - but for that you probably need something better than A2 level French. (Though plenty of French people will be only too happy to "practice English" with and on you. The trick is to set up a language exchange - half the time in English, the other half in French - over a cup of coffee or a glass of wine on a regular basis.)

Skim through the forum posts here to get an idea of what things about France most annoy many Americans, and what things they most enjoy here. Paris tends to be like most large international cities. But consider a couple of the next tier of "large towns." You may just find what you're looking for.
 
#6 ·
Expats,

Thank you for your comments on our ideas. Since the original post a few days ago, we have modified our ideas a bit. We still believe that France offers a more vibrant culture than does Portugal; we still believe that French offers a better platform for learning another language and integrating into another culture than does Portuguese, and we still believe that in France we will find more people open to meeting new people than in Portugal.

As we are ageing though, we don’t think we can live around Paris year-round. Snow and cold are fun for a while but for us, not year-after-year.

Lyon might be a better choice. They have a symphony orchestra - which is critical for us - and they are not too far from Paris.

Our current plan is to remain residents in Portugal and visit various areas of France for as lengthy stays as we can manage over the next few years - then see.

We will miss becoming part of French culture during those years. My wife says she wants to learn French rather than Portuguese. I want to get to a conversational level in Portuguese before moving on.

Thanks again.

Bill & Emily