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Never Trust Electrical Tape - Page 3


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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 27th April 2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary D View Post
Wire nuts are not rated for 230Vac so there may be some method in his madness.
I worked on motors and starters (HVAC mostly) for 25 years. We used wire nuts for most connections. Some larger 440 needed gurneys. One thing I have not seen here is friction tape...
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 27th April 2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tukaram View Post
I worked on motors and starters (HVAC mostly) for 25 years. We used wire nuts for most connections. Some larger 440 needed gurneys. One thing I have not seen here is friction tape...
Yes wire nuts are common in the 110Vac USA but not used in 240Vac Europe. We tend to use a similar looking device that crimps the wires, otherwise it's screw terminals.

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 27th April 2018, 08:20 AM
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Guys, a RCD Residual Current Device is a totally different device to a MCB Miniature Circuit Breaker. They operate in completely different ways and serve different functions. The MCB's in your panel are there to protect the circuit against overlaid not to provide protection against electrocution, eg a 32A breaker will trip if the current exceeds 32A, so you could stick your fingers across the supply and electrocute yourself before the breaker would ever trip. Same with the guys melting lamp. Unless it was drawing more than the breaker rating, it would not trip, ie an MCB is not there to offer protection against electrocution.
On the other hand a RCD is designed to offer safety against electrical shock and operates completely differently. The RCD continuously monitors the Line and Neutral currents, which of course should be equal. In case of any difference in the currents by more than the trip rating of the device, typically 30mA (30 thousandths of an amp), which will happen if a human were to touch the Live wire and a small current started to flow through him to ground, then the RCD will immediately trip because some current is being diverted through him and not returning via the neutral..
In order for the device to operate correctly, the wiring in the house has to be such that all of the neutral connections are taken back to the appropriate neutral busbar, ie all of the neutrals must be segregated and connected to the neutral connected to the RCD that is being used. I have 4 banks in my breaker box and 4 RCD's protecting them. It is very easy to get a neutral wrongly connected to the wrong neutral bus bar, in which case the RCD will trip immediately as it will detect an imbalance of live and neutral currents.
To avoid nuisance tripping, it is usual to use differently rated RCD's on different circuits, typically the lighting and wall outlets will usually be 30mA, whereas the AC, Washing machine circuits, may use 100mA devices.
So I'm afraid it isn't as easy as just sticking an RCD on the incomer.
I really recommend finding a decent electrician if you're not familiar with house wiring standards.
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Old 27th April 2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Hey_Joe View Post
Would you kindly post a close up of the residual breaker only. I may have my Electrician add this set up to the outside. Thanks!
Main_Res_Breaker_a.jpg

Above is a picture of my residual breaker on the outside of the house. The sun was kind of intense, so I included a url link to exactly the same type of breaker ebay The manufacture is Chint, and the model number is NL1-63.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHINT-NL1...-/272135865967

Main_Entrance_a.jpg

Above is a wider angle picture of the weatherproof box containing my breaker on the side of the house. At this time of the afternoon it is hard to get a good picture due to the glare from the sun, but I think you should be able to see what is going on if you look carefully.

Pressure_Pump_Elect_a.jpg

Above is another weatherproof box I have on the opposite side of my house to supply current to our pressure pump.

Pump_Breaker_a.jpg

Above is the miniature breaker inside the above weatherproof box which supplies current to our pressure pump. I picked this particular breaker because it was the lowest ratting I could find (10 Amps) and also because it was manufactured by Chint. (Never heard of Chint before moving here.)
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 27th April 2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogrider View Post
Guys, a RCD Residual Current Device is a totally different device to a MCB Miniature Circuit Breaker. They operate in completely different ways and serve different functions. The MCB's in your panel are there to protect the circuit against overlaid not to provide protection against electrocution, eg a 32A breaker will trip if the current exceeds 32A, so you could stick your fingers across the supply and electrocute yourself before the breaker would ever trip......
Okay, that makes sense, but if I have a dead short, such as the one which occurred in my sister-in-law's light fixture, then wouldn't the dead short mean less resistance in the circuit, and if there is less resistance then amperage should increase and cause the breaker to kick? Not trying to be funny, I honestly don't know.

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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 28th April 2018, 11:39 AM
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Okay, that makes sense, but if I have a dead short, such as the one which occurred in my sister-in-law's light fixture, then wouldn't the dead short mean less resistance in the circuit, and if there is less resistance then amperage should increase and cause the breaker to kick? Not trying to be funny, I honestly don't know.
The breaker will trip if the current exceeds the trip value. However, there may have been a fault in the wiring or the lamp itself which caused the overheating and still not necessarily have caused a 100% short. In may also have been that the cabling itself was underrated and overheating.
Case in point, few days ago my neighbour called me in to check out a problem he was facing with his electrics. There was a strong burning smell from within his electric panel. Nothing had tripped off. Upon investigation and removing the panel cover, there were 4 quite dead frizzled ghekhos across some of the wiring. Although they drew enough current to fry themselves, none of the breakers had tripped. An RCD would have have tripped off, may not have saved the ghekos though.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 14th May 2018, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogrider View Post
Guys, a RCD Residual Current Device is a totally different device to a MCB Miniature Circuit Breaker. ... The MCB's in your panel are there to protect the circuit against overlaid not to provide protection against electrocution,...

On the other hand a RCD is designed to offer safety against electrical shock and operates completely differently. The RCD continuously monitors the Line and Neutral currents,.. In case of any difference in the currents by more than the trip rating of the device, typically 30mA (30 thousandths of an amp), which will happen if a human were to touch the Live wire and a small current started to flow through him to ground, then the RCD will immediately trip because some current is being diverted through him and not returning via the neutral....
Okay. In the U.S. we call an RCD a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. You can install them as a GFCI outlet (commonly seen in CR's ) or as a breaker in the load center.
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