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Solo woman moving to GDL - Questions

7K views 38 replies 17 participants last post by  oaxacakate 
#1 ·
Hello,

Now that I've found this excellent website, I am very eager to do more research about my intended move to Guadalajara. Feedback on any of the following questions greatly appreciated.

1) I am a redhaired pale skinned 'gringa' of a certain age - not quite ready for full retirement but way past the spring chicken stage. Basically fit, active. What should I know about living, alone, in Guadalajara or Zapopan?

2) Costs: I would want to find a furnished apartment in the Zapopan or northwest GDL area, rentable by the month. I will not be bringing a car. Security of course is a major consideration. I would want a small two bedroom, 1 bath apt. w/shower and full bathtub, full kitchen (I mean stove, oven, refrigerator, cooking equipment, etc.) Beds, linens, towels - what one would generally find in a decent, not luxurious hotel. Access to safe laundry facilities. Television, highspeed internet most important. A more or less quiet residential neighborhood would be nice. How much should I expect to pay for that, and how would I find it?

3) Is the public transport system reasonable to get around on? Radio/licensed taxis generally available, reasonable, safe? Are there 2 prices for taxis? i.e., ****** price and local price? Do you negotiate in advance?

4) My initial plan is to take a TEFL course at the ITTO school, and look for work, perhaps part-time as a Teacher of Business English (I have a BA in Economics and and an MBA). Has anyone any information about working for US companies whose Mexican employees get English instruction on-site? Or Mexican companies, for that matter?

5) Living inexpensively is important - I like to cook and don't need much in the way of American brand name products. Is a budget of USD1200/mo. a reasonabe expectation? I hope to be able to make $400-$500 of that by teaching.

6) Moving permanently. I have read, somewhere, that one may bring all of one's personal possessions into Mexico without duty - but only within 90 days of 'going' to Mexico. Can anyone elaborate on this, or recommend links?

7) Are there good Mexican Chardonnays? How much for a decent bottle - not something to impress the guests, but just a good daily quaffing wine?

8) I speak a bit of beginner level Spanish and intend to continue to work on and improve my fluency - but that will take time. How essential is fluent Spanish in GDL?

9) Should I have broken this up into 8 different topics?

Looking forward to hearing from you. I've been perusing the topics and will be doing more - looks like a great bunch of folks here. Thanks.
 
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#2 ·
Your only real problem will be finding a rental with a bath tub. Most will have showers. Here, in Chapala, we have a 1BR fully equipped rental that goes for $500 USD per month, for example, and I am sure you can find similar situations in Zapopan, but it will take some serious footwork and will give you a chance to practice your spanish. Online, you can start by using Google to find the local classifieds and zero in on Zapopan listings. Try, "Bienes raices en Guadalajara" and "Bienes raices en Zapopan", etc.
I think you can bring a car full of stuff, something like $1000 USD worth at garage sale prices, without having to use a broker. You will enter on an FMM and visit INM to apply for an FM3 as soon as you get an address. Of course, if you are flying, that won't be a concern, as it is much cheaper to buy new stuff in Mexico than to ship it from abroad.
Your budget is doable, with care.
The wines of much of the world are available; no problem there.
 
#4 ·
1. I do not know if this is still true but in the old days Mexicans would walk my my mom (a redhead) and touch her hair, supposedly for good luck...
2. There will be furnished apartments but probably not with towels and linens, TV or high speed Internet( extra charge)....
3. They probably have no ****** price list in Zapopan, Chapala probably
4. It just seems with all the U.S. and Canadian expats in the Guadalajara/ Chapala area is one more English teacher needed?
5.I believe she needs a job offered by a company in Mexico, they would help with the FM3
6. You will have to Google that question
7. not a wine drinker
8. English spoken mostly in tourist areas....hope this helps
 
#5 ·
Bournemouth makes a good point. The lady will have to show immigration proof of about $1200 USD per month foreign income or significant resources (investments, savings, etc.) to qualify for a visa. If that is not possible, the FMM will require that she leave Mexico before it expires in 180 days.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yes, thank you, I was just thinking about this. Of course there is no way of knowing just how much I will be able to make by teaching, and I may even find that teaching is not for me. I don't have any regular income other than a small amount of monthly alimony which will end in May 2011. I do, however, have some money invested, mostly in retirement savings which I want to leave to grow as much as possible, but still will have to use some of. How much of a "nest egg" will I have to show evidence of to Immigration? Anyone know? Thanks. Eventually Social Security should come to the rescue, but that is still a number of years away.
 
#7 ·
I'm going to assume that, since the monthly income requirement is something like $1200 USD, that you would have to prove, at renewal every year, that you had about $14,400 on hand and probably show that you were withdrawing some $1200 per month for at least the three months prior to renewal. What they really want to see is deposits from Social Security and/or investments and retirement funds. The FM3 that you will need is 'visitante rentista', which means visiting retiree. There are other categories, but they require special talents or qualifications, being hired by a Mexican company, etc.
 
#8 ·
1) Nothing substantially different from living anywhere else. Don't do foolish things, be a tad more careful since you would be obviously conspicuous, but in general just apply common sense.

2) Security: you will know if a neighbourhood is OK or not as soon as you are there, unfortunately in Mexico the divide between well off areas and poor ones is easy to recognize in general terms. You can't relocate toa less affluent area as a foreigner until you are really acquainted with daily life in Mexico, after that it could be done.

Bathtub: forget about it. It is not the Mexican way. If you find one, good for you, in general terms it is considered an unnecessary, luxury item.

Bed, linens and towels are not normally part of a flat menagerie, but you can buy all what you need at very reasonable prices if you need to save money.

Kitchen should have stove and fridge. You may have also an oven and/or microwave. You would be very lucky if you have a dish washer.

Many flats should have a washing machine, and you will have either an area to do your washing in the flat or inside the building, you rarely have to look for a laundrette.

TV: free to air is only in Spanish, then you have Cablevision, Telmex and Sky selling you integrated packages (TV-Broadband-Phone), all very expensive, be prepared to be shocked. You would get US TV, but I wonder how useful that is with the Internet (to check for news) and with many US TV shows available on DVD locally...

3) There are never ****** prices and local prices, there are tourist prices and local prices. If you are a tourist, irrespective of your nationality or appearance, Mexican cabbies will try to pull your leg. Information is power. Check with the Taxi companies for their prices, ask always fares in advance, become a regular of one or two taxi companies, once you build a relationship they will tend to take care of you.

Guadalajara public transport is not really good. The metro lines are restricted, slow, and overcrowded, buses should preferably be avoided. In as much as possible you should take taxis in a "sitio" (a kind of base on the street where only taxis belonging there can pick up passengers, there should be a person working there that can vouch for the security of boarding a vehicle there) or radiotaxis. You can flag down a taxi on the street, but then you should make a point of looking at the ID of the cabbie (which should be displayed prominently) and discretely take a note of the plates, but this method is best avoided if possible.

4) Not much to say here, sorry.

5) You can live very cheaply in Mexico if needed. $1200 is in the tight side of things, but it should be OK.

6) ---

7) Mexican wine is not very good in general terms, there are some passable ones but they are not reliable from year to year. You will find wines from all around the world in big wine shops, supermarkets, etc, but you will find that they are expensive as compared to the local purchase power of most people. Wine in Mexico is considered a real luxury, not what you need if you are trying to live cheaply.

8) Fluent Spanish is fundamental. It is funny how many US people don't think about this, many back in the US rightly expect people to learn English in order to integrate to society in a full and productive manner, it should go without saying that it is the same the other way around. There are people that survive speaking very bad Spanish, but then they are at the mercy of locals taking advantage of them, or even other foreigners, who would know they need help.

Learn Spanish. Fast. It is the biggest favour you could do to yourself (that would widen your job horizons. With your expertise in Economics and Business you could teach other subjects apart from English or even get a job doing something entirely different to teaching).

9) Perhaps, but this is a free world ;-)
 
#14 ·
Guadalajara public transport is not really good. The metro lines are restricted, slow, and overcrowded, buses should preferably be avoided. In as much as possible you should take taxis in a "sitio" (a kind of base on the street where only taxis belonging there can pick up passengers, there should be a person working there that can vouch for the security of boarding a vehicle there) or radiotaxis. You can flag down a taxi on the street, but then you should make a point of looking at the ID of the cabbie (which should be displayed prominently) and discretely take a note of the plates, but this method is best avoided if possible.
There is a lot of good advice in the responses here generally. However, I have to disagree with this comment on public transit in Guadalajara.

I have lived here for 2-1/2 years and take the buses all the time. They have positives and negatives, listed below, but the bottom line is that it is a great system for doing what bus systems should do: making it convenient and cheap to get around without a car.

Positives:
They run everywhere, particularly in and out of the center of Guadalajara.
Most routes run very often, every few minutes. I rarely wait more than 5 minutes. At off hours or in outlying areas the wait can be longer.
They are cheap. The full fare is 6 pesos (45 cents). For seniors with "credencial" it is half that.
They are clean in the sense that you can sit on the seats without worrying about it (see negatives).

Negatives:
They are old and beat up.
The shocks/springs often are terrible.
Many drivers like to stop and start abruptly so it usually is a jerky ride.
They can be crowded during rush hour. (Worst example: 380 on Perferico)
It can be a challenge to figure out which one you want. The best is to ask someone at a bus stop if you speak enough spanish.
They stop running at about 10:30 or 11 in evening, so they can truncate socializing late at night.

Finally, a comment on taxis. The recommendation for only getting taxis in the sitios is overly conservative. You can usually negotiate a better price with a taxi on the street. I have never heard of anyone having any problems stopping a taxi on the street. You do want to discuss the price and agree on the fare before you get in. And it helps to know what the fare should be.
 
#10 ·
A lot of good points. I think most critical is to not move to Mexico till you have financials set. I think that it is very risky to assume that you will make any funds in Mexico and should treat as a plus. It is still key to try to get a commitment and help from a company whether foreign or Mexican in terms of the paperwork but doubtful that salary will be much and probably tenuous. If you have assets that you can employ to get to $1200 a month then great, if not you could get into a very tough position.
Second is a minor point but if you want a tub, not a problem. Problem is how to connect in rental house. A number of folk here have gone to Santa Clara del Cobre near Patzcuaro and basically got a custom copper tub made very reasonably
 
#11 ·
I don't know if this has been anyone else's situation, but I personally didn't have to show proof of income when applying for my FM3. I was offered a job, and I applied for it from there, with the help of the company (it was a university). I didn't have to get my degrees translated or anything either, since the guy at the visa place said "obviously you can teach English, you're Canadian!" I don't really think that's an obvious conclusion, but hey, it was one less thing to do...!
 
#12 ·
I have just recently moved to Guadalajara with my son, we are living in a 4 bedroom house that has 3 bathrooms, no bathtubs. We would be willing to rent one of the bedrooms out for a couple of months to let you get settled and find your way around. We live in a very nice and safe neighborhood and the house is funished, with towels and anything else you would need.
 
#15 ·
Hola Jane,
I recently lived alone as a woman in Mexico in my mid fifties and feel it's very different from living alone in central Florida (with lots of Hispanics). I recommend that you learn more Spanish, so you can at least carry on a basic conversation if you plan to go alone... it's best, though, if you can get to intermediate level before going it on your own. Do you have any friends in GDL? You do need to be significantly more careful in Mexico than you would in the States. I made friends with Mexican women when I lived in SMA by offering 'intercambio' - free conversation - half and hour of English for half an hour of Spanish. This was a great way to make friends with Mexicans and learn Spanish.

I'm concerned that you might not get work with one course in TEFL and little knowledge of Spanish - even though you have the MBA. Maybe you could put together workshops for Americans on developing entrepreneurial skills? So many of us are going to Mexico hoping for a little income with a small business...I'm hoping that my art workshops and my paintings of Mexican Conchero dancers may be of interest to Americans in the GDL area when I retire - hopefully, to Mexico.
Catalina
 
#16 ·
I'm only going to toucb on the financial part here. My family of 3 live off os $1040/mos and it's fine. We have to be careful, that'sall. Of course, I will be getting a raise this year, so it will increase. I doubt you will be able to make the sort of money you need to live off as a single person though. Maybe it could happen. Do you have any degrees? It might be easier to try to secure a job first before making the move.
 
#17 ·
I was originally interested in Lake Chapala, because I want to retire to an area that is still authentically Mexican that also offers lots of activities with expats....but I'm increasingly interested in retiring to GDL - and particularly in the area of Zapopan. I also think it's great advice to rent for awhile in each location to know where to buy a "casita".

If your family can live on $1000 a month, I'm thinking the rentals may be even cheaper than I thought. I'll just need a one bedroom place for myself (and my dog:). I'm wondering if you could give me a ball park minimum - maximum $ range to think in terms of for rent and utilities... I'm frugal:)...

Thanks!
Catalina
 
#21 ·
Peace Corps - GDL

Hola Will,
Thanks so much for the very helpful info. I've always thought it would be wonderful to work for Peace Corps. Is it possible to request placement in GDL? Are you a Peace Corps volunteer? Do you know what type of work is needed in GDL?

I could offer that I have a Master's degree in TESOL from 1996 and very successful experience since then teaching on the college level. I also speak intermediate Spanish, and know I enjoy living in Mexico. If you figure 30% more to live in the States, I have been living on the equivalent of what they pay Peace Corps volunteers! I have three more years before I can retire, but I'm eager to come to Mexico to live sooner.

I'm looking forward to your response and hearing more about you and your life in GDL.
Catalina
 
#23 ·
Hi.. I have copied your questions in to help me to remember what to answer.. I'm in Puebla, have passed thru GDL a couple times, but just briefly, so my responses are generalfor what i've found in Mex..

1) I am a redhaired pale skinned 'gringa' of a certain age - not quite ready for full retirement but way past the spring chicken stage. Basically fit, active. What should I know about living, alone, in Guadalajara or Zapopan?
Me too.. red hair/pale.. tho i'm a mom with young kids.. No big deal.. just Constant Vigilance.. like any big city in the world..

2) Costs: I would want to find a furnished apartment in the Zapopan or northwest GDL area, rentable by the month. I will not be bringing a car. Security of course is a major consideration. I would want a small two bedroom, 1 bath apt. w/shower and full bathtub, full kitchen (I mean stove, oven, refrigerator, cooking equipment, etc.) Beds, linens, towels - what one would generally find in a decent, not luxurious hotel. Access to safe laundry facilities. Television, highspeed internet most important. A more or less quiet residential neighborhood would be nice. How much should I expect to pay for that, and how would I find it? you may find it hard to find a full bathtub.. some "furnished" apartments will come will the appliances, but in general apts don't come with that sort of thing.. but you can find them for cheap if you have to.. you would definitely want your own cooking equipment and linens.. these you can get at the aurera bodega (i don't know if they have in GDL, but it's Walmarts sister company here) or the mercados are probabaly your cheapest option.. you can have your laundry done for 9-11 pesos/kg (2lbs) and there are probably a lot of places you can wash your own.. You will need to contract an internet about the same price as states more or less depending on company and what services you want (200pesos +/- for just internet)

3) Is the public transport system reasonable to get around on? shouldn't be a problem, lots of buses, minibuses, taxis.. Radio/licensed taxis generally available, reasonable, safe? yes, yes, yes.. again.. constant vigilance Are there 2 prices for taxis? i.e., ****** price and local price? yes Do you negotiate in advance? yes.. and learned to say something to the effect of "is that your best price" "you can do better than that" etc..

4) My initial plan is to take a TEFL course at the ITTO school, and look for work, perhaps part-time as a Teacher of Business English (I have a BA in Economics and and an MBA). Has anyone any information about working for US companies whose Mexican employees get English instruction on-site? Or Mexican companies, for that matter?
i am a private English teacher.. you should have no problem finding this sort of employment.. even before certification.. just make some flyers.. research companies where you would like to teach.. distribute your flyers to these companies.. schools.. nice neighborhoods.. etc.. I work by word of mouth only, and I teach businesspeople and their children in (generally) one-on-one classes..
5) Living inexpensively is important - I like to cook and don't need much in the way of American brand name products. Is a budget of USD1200/mo. a reasonabe expectation? I hope to be able to make $400-$500 of that by teaching. shouldn't be a problem at all.. you can probably find the kind of apt you are looking for for $300-$500usd (unless you are super picky).. and my family of 5 spend $50/week in groceries (basics and diapers..).. you'll probably spend about that if you are entertaining once a week.. (i would recommend bringing a few of your favorite spices with you, pick up a few cheap shakers (aldi's has the for $1) before you come.. why? the actual shakers are the valuable part.. just your favorites.. maybe 5, unless you use a lot.. they don't take up much room, and one less thing you have to buy here.. spices are super cheap, so refilling your shakers, no problem..)

6) Moving permanently. I have read, somewhere, that one may bring all of one's personal possessions into Mexico without duty - but only within 90 days of 'going' to Mexico. Can anyone elaborate on this, or recommend links? i have never had an issue.. are you bringing a big truck? then you'll need to check in when you cross.. otherwise, if you take a carload each time you cross or something.. i just say.. "it's for my house".. that's it.. no big deal, but make sure that you have the right visa for your needs.. don't let it expire (if it does, it's not a big deal.. generally.. might have to pay $50usd though) but that may be changing with the new immigration laws.. i travel enough that i haven't overstayed.. also, if you bring a car you'll need to get a permit for that..

7) Are there good Mexican Chardonnays? How much for a decent bottle - not something to impress the guests, but just a good daily quaffing wine?
not a big wine drinker myself.. just occassional.. though i like sweeter, so i can't help on the char.. i use the cheap stuff for cooking, but then for something decent, you'll probably spend about $15-$20usd
8) I speak a bit of beginner level Spanish and intend to continue to work on and improve my fluency - but that will take time. How essential is fluent Spanish in GDL? You probably won't run into any major problems.. 1. show that you are trying 2. learn basic phrases for getting around..

9) Should I have broken this up into 8 different topics? no.. this is easiest for me .. good luck & let me know if you have any questions..

Looking forward to hearing from you. I've been perusing the topics and will be doing more - looks like a great bunch of folks here. Thanks.[/QUOTE]
 
#24 ·
Most of the advice given above is good. You should know that you can find anything you wish in Guadalajara. There are multiple Walmarts, Sam's, Costco, Mega, Chedruai, Soriana and other stores.
You may not bring "a big truck". You can ship household goods with a 'menaje de casa' after you obtain your visa in Mexico (new rules).
If you wish to work in any capacity, INM requires that you have their permission entered into your visa. There are added costs involved and restrictions on type of work, etc.
 
#27 ·
Kathleen,
The vast majority of expats and their clubs, pools and imported products, etc., are found on the north shore of Lake Chapala. The 'outskirts' of Guadalajara, extend for miles into other metropolitan municipalities and industrial areas.
It sounds like you haven't made your first exploratory visit yet. True? If you can be a little more specific about what you seek, perhaps folks from Lake Chapala, as well as Guadalajara, can answer with greater detail.
 
#30 ·
I am also considering a move to Mexico (Puebla). For income, I am considering "retiring" (after 13 years of teaching Home Economics) and using my retirement income (not much - about $300 a month) plus a lump sum in savings of about $30k. I noticed the one post mentioned using a pay pal account to transfer funds for 3 months prior to renewing. Do you think this would work for me? I am hoping to teach English in Mexico (I have experience teaching ESL in the states) but would consider this money a bonus.

Also, I have 5 cats that I'd like to bring...anyone have any experience/thoughts on this?

What if I purchase a home (or condo) there and I end up not making the minimum income requirement of $1200...would they kick me out and I'd lose my investment? Thanks in advance for your replies.

p.s. I'm also a fair-skinned redhead! and I speak Spanish fairly fluently
 
#31 ·
Your income would be lucky to rent you a place to live, perhaps without utilities, and would not qualify you for a visa, as you know.
If you owned a home and could not maintain the visa, you would have to leave the country, returning only on a 180 day FMM permit. Ownership of a home doesn't insure that you have the right to stay in Mexico.
It doesn't appear that you are ready to 'retire'.
You will only be permitted to import two pets. Trying to bring more can get very complicated and very expensive.
 
#32 ·
Your income would be lucky to rent you a place to live, perhaps without utilities, and would not qualify you for a visa, as you know.
If you owned a home and could not maintain the visa, you would have to leave the country, returning only on a 180 day FMM permit. Ownership of a home doesn't insure that you have the right to stay in Mexico.
I concur, I would just add two comments. The cheapest rents in Mexico are for a room in a shared living arrangement. That is how most single Mexicans live if the first option, living with their family, isn't available for any reason. You can rent a room in urban areas for $100-$150/month. In small towns/rural areas, you can rent a house for that amount. Secondly, the right to stay in Mexico doesn't affect ownership of property you have purchased. They would not confiscate your property if you didn't qualify for a visa. Neither of these two comments changes the basic assessment made above. Your resources sound inadequate to qualify for continuous residence in Mexico.

Will
 
#34 ·
It is quite common for 'boyfriends' to encourage a move to Mexico in these circumstances. However, they are seldom informed on immigration requirements for foreigners; just as you are probably not up on the details of how complicated it is for a Mexican to gain a visa for the USA. It can take years and is very expensive; frequently impossible, even to visit as a tourist.
 
#35 ·
I have quite a few Mexican friends (both legal and illegal in the US) and so I know the challenges they face when trying to get a visa (for both work and/or visiting). It can be pretty daunting.

For me, I didn't think it would be so hard to migrate to Mexico, though. It looks like I could apply for a FM2, non-working retiree (under age 50) but would still need to have the income requirements met, unless my honey is going to support me. Since he's living here, he doesn't have a job in Mexico, a place to live there or even a nest egg to move back with...hmm...my mother didn't raise a fool.

It's a shame, though, because I really would like to live there. I have traveled a lot around the country and really like the people and the culture. I won't rule it out, but maybe now is just not the time. I can still continue to visit, though.
 
#38 ·
Help offer



Hi Jane, Im American living in Veracruz Mexico. Ive lived here for about 2 years now. Wonderful city and country. I can give you a great deal of advice about mexico but not GDL specifically. If youd like some free advice feel free to contact me at my email bacchus5772 at live dot com.
Wish you well and all the luck. Mexico is wonderful. Its so FREE here!!!
Luck,
Carlo
 
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